Usually the hottest tickets in Milan are for opening night at La Scala. No-one wants to miss the opportunity to cheer, boo or hiss the latest production at the world's most famous opera house.

This season the talk is of the goings-on in a converted sawmill. The high notes are provided by the bold simplicity of the architecture - and the food. Carlo e Camilla is the latest must-go restaurant in the city, set in what was once a sawmill in the Segheria district.

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The interior is boldly stark, in celebration of the building's industrial past. Stripped walls are left bare, the rafters exposed with vintage crystal chandeliers hung beneath.

There's a single 70-seater table in the shape of a cross with paper tablecloths and napkins covered in doodles by the artist Gianluca Biscalchin. Crockery is deliberately mis-matched.

The owner is Tanja Solci, a Milanese art and design communications expert. She's spent years painstakingly transforming the sawmill, abandoned for decades, into a restaurant. If the look is abandoned, the reality is that this was achieved as a result of many hundreds of hours of work.

Diners have the thrill of eating in what seems like a factory - and the anticipation of the work of chef Carlo Cracco, nationally famous for his appearances on MasterChef Italia.

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The food is as apparently ordinary as the surroundings. The short menu changes regularly and features updated versions of Italian classics. Wines are a monthly selection from a single craft vineyard.

If you're planning a visit on your next trip to Milan, plan ahead - well ahead: Carlo e Camilla restaurant has been a hit from day one. Take your best Italian phrase book and prepare for an extraordinary experience.

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Grandiose architecture has long gone hand in hand with the finest restaurants. Carlo e Camilla takes the relationship in in a new direction and we're fans already.

A standing ovation is due, surely?