A closer look at the shoe that changed the game
Grey suede shoes. Hardly a riveting visual image, is it? Unless of course you’re a New Balance fan. Because for those who know, simple grey suede is the signature of the Bostonian brand’s flagship lifestyle sneaker – a shoe that has served as the high-water mark for comfort and quality for over four decades now. We’re talking, of course, about the New Balance 990.
The 990 series has a reputation built on precision, quality, and purpose. Launched in 1982 as a high-performance running shoe, the 990 was an ambitious leap forward. It wasn’t created to be affordable, nor was it flashy. Instead, New Balance built it as the pinnacle of running footwear, uniting innovative technology with timeless styling, exceptional craftsmanship and no expense spared on materials. Forty years later, the 990 stands as one of the most enduring sneaker silhouettes in history and one of the greatest New Balance shoes of all time – a perfect intersection of performance and lifestyle.
Each version of the 990 reflects both the era in which it was released and New Balance’s commitment to refinement. From its debut as a functional runner to its current place as the ultimate lifestyle sneaker, the 990 has never felt out of step. Its ability to evolve without sacrificing identity is unmatched – a rare quality in an industry obsessed with reinvention.
Table of Contents
The 990v1
When the first 990 hit shelves in 1982, it did so with a price tag of $100, an unprecedented sum for a running shoe. That price spoke to its construction, but it also made it something of a status symbol. The shoe blended cutting-edge technology with Made in USA production, setting a new benchmark for quality. Beneath its understated design lay a “Motion Control Device,” a footbed innovation that delivered remarkable support and stability.
The 990v1 challenged expectations of what running shoes could achieve. At a time when brands were focused on reducing costs, New Balance committed to materials and engineering that justified its price. Its clean silhouette and durability resonated well beyond running circles, setting the tone for what the 990 series would become.
The 990v2
New Balance didn’t update the 990 until 1998, nearly two decades later. The v2 marked a departure from the first iteration, bringing technical and aesthetic changes that pushed the design forward. The introduction of the ABZORB midsole made the v2 a more cushioned, shock-absorbing shoe, while the upper adopted sharper lines and layered detailing inspired by contemporary models.
The shift was significant. While the 995 through 999 series maintained the look and feel of the v1, the v2 broke the mold. It felt bolder, with a silhouette that redefined what the 990 could be. Over the years, collaborations have highlighted the v2’s versatility, reaffirming its status as both a collector’s favourite and a functional sneaker.
The 990v3
By 2012, New Balance leaned into the 990’s growing appeal as a lifestyle shoe. The v3 marked the series’ 30th anniversary with updates that prioritised breathability and comfort. Mesh panels took on a larger role, softening the structure and reducing weight. The pigskin panelling remained, linking the v3 to its predecessors while introducing a lighter, more modern profile.
Technologically, the ENCAP midsole continued to deliver reliable support, while subtle details – like a diamond-patterned tongue and ribbed “N” logo – gave the v3 a more polished look. This version of the 990 struck a balance between heritage and innovation, moving the shoe further into the lifestyle market without abandoning its roots as a performance sneaker.
The 990v4
By the time the 990v4 arrived in 2016, New Balance had a firm grasp on the shoe’s status as a cultural icon. While the core design remained familiar, the v4 responded to the era’s trends with careful tweaks. The signature “N” logo was enlarged, adding presence to the upper, while materials like leather, pigskin suede, and mesh were subtly adjusted for improved structure.
The “dad shoe” resurgence helped propel the v4 beyond its usual audience. Its chunky silhouette felt refreshing in a market oversaturated with sock-like trainers. Functionally, the ENCAP midsole and EVA core maintained the comfort and stability the 990 had always been known for, while collaborations cemented the v4’s appeal among collectors and casual wearers alike.
The 990v5
In 2019, the v5 continued the 990’s evolution with small but deliberate changes. Structurally, the v5 introduced a tonal TPU power strap for added support across the upper. Reflective accents enhanced visibility, while the slate grey colourway added a modern edge to the silhouette. Premium pigskin remained a cornerstone of its design, underlining the shoe’s balance of quality and utility.
The v5 maintained the clean, refined lines that defined the series while feeling slightly more robust. It was versatile, able to transition from performance wear to everyday style effortlessly. Subtle adjustments ensured the v5 appealed to purists and new fans alike, proving once again that the 990 thrives on incremental improvement rather than reinvention.
The 990v6
The 990v6 marks the latest chapter in the series, and the first to be designed by New Balance MADE creative director, Aimé Leon Dore boss Teddy Santis. At first glance, the v6 retains much of the familiar 990 DNA – the layered, multi-material upper and the substantial sole unit remain. However, subtle shifts mark its progression. For the first time, the “N” logo rested directly on mesh rather than suede, creating a cleaner, sleeker, sportier profile.
While the v6 feels closely tied to the v3 and v4, it introduced enough refinements to stand apart. The sole, while bulkier at the forefoot, reflects modern sneaker trends, hinting at performance updates beneath the surface. With Santis at the helm, the 990v6 has seen a number of limited colourways, but the core version keeps the same buttery soft grey suede that has become New Balance’s visual signature.
The New Balance 990: An Enduring Legacy
From its ambitious beginnings in 1982 to its latest iteration, the New Balance 990 has maintained an unwavering commitment to quality, comfort, and design. Each version has brought subtle evolutions, reflecting shifts in technology and culture while staying rooted in its original purpose. The 990 is not a sneaker that chases trends – it sets a standard.
As New Balance celebrates 40 years of the 990, the series stands as a testament to thoughtful design and enduring appeal. It is a shoe that adapts to its moment without losing sight of what it has always been: a masterclass in performance and understated style.
Next up: The greatest New Balance sneakers of all time.
