Proof, if ever it were needed, that cosy can be cool
When it comes to fleece jackets, one brand is king. For decades, Patagonia's fleece has been serving as a blueprint; a high-water mark for all other fleece to aspire to. Often imitated, but never bettered, the Californian brand’s thick-pile outerwear offers that winning blend of form and function. Built for the outdoors, but just as happy swaddling cold shoulders outside trendy New York coffee hangouts on cold winter mornings.
These fuzzy jackets have transcended their outdoor roots. Born for rock climbing and mountaineering, they’ve since been usurped by lightweight modern tech, but their enduring aesthetic appeal has kept them relevant in the world of menswear and gorpcore. In fact, there’s a thriving vintage market, where decades-old Patagonia fleeces routinely sell for hundreds and even thousands of pounds.
Here we delve into the background of an outdoor icon, including the history, the legacy and the key models to explore today.
The birth of Patagonia fleece
Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard began his outdoor exploits clad in wool. It shielded against the cold, but it burdened adventurers with its heft and bulk. Chouinard yearned for something lighter, something nimble. In the 1970s, he stumbled upon acrylic pile fabric. It trapped heat and repelled water, yet it didn’t quite satisfy his vision.
The true breakthrough materialised through his wife, Malinda. She unearthed a roll of fuzzy polyester fabric designed for toilet seat covers. It was soft, featherlight, and promising. Patagonia crafted a prototype jacket in 1975. The outer layer frayed after a single wash, but the jacket astonished with its warmth, quick-drying properties, and remarkable lightness.
In 1981, Chouinard collaborated with Malden Mills (now Polartec) to engineer a more rugged fleece. The result was Synchilla, Patagonia’s first commercial fleece jacket. Launched in 1985, it was supple, lightweight, and transformative for outdoor wear.
In 1988, Patagonia unleashed the Retro Pile fleece. Designers flipped the pile to the jacket’s exterior, revolutionising moisture control. A 1998 Patagonia catalogue described how body heat expelled moisture into the pile fibres, where it clung momentarily before vanishing into the air. This design elevated both comfort and performance, especially in demanding conditions.
The Retro-X jacket arrived in 1993, fortifying fleece with windproofing. Its construction layered thick fleece, a wind-resistant barrier, and a lining that wicked moisture. The short, waist-length cut stemmed from prototypes tailored to Chouinard’s build. This snug, functional fit stuck.
From snowline to city
Patagonia’s fleece jackets infiltrated the outdoor world with their utility. Climbers, hikers, and skiers swore by them. Over time, their appeal spilled into everyday wardrobes too. After all, these were jackets capable enduring snowstorms and subway commutes alike.
Retro Pile and Retro-X designs have retained their original spirit. Minor refinements have crept in, sure, but their essence remains untouched. Even to this day, Patagonia offers them in an array of styles, catering to men, women, and even children too.
Patagonia fleece: Tackling environmental challenges
Sustainability courses through Patagonia’s proverbial veins. In 1993, the brand pioneered the use of recycled polyester in fleece. Today, Retro Pile and Retro-X jackets are crafted entirely from recycled materials in Fair Trade-certified factories.
Still, fleece grapples with the challenge of microplastic shedding. Patagonia has countered this by inventing fabrics that release fewer fibres and designing washing machine filters that capture errant particles. The company nudges buyers to wash fleece sparingly and use specialised laundry bags to mitigate shedding.
Patagonia champions durability. Its fleece jackets, some three decades old, continue to serve. The company fosters longevity through its Worn Wear programme, which repairs garments and offers second-hand options. Each patch and stitch extends the life of these iconic jackets, slashing waste in the process.
Enduring Appeal
Patagonia’s fleece jackets endure as symbols of innovation and care. They harmonise utility, durability, and sustainability with grace. Though fast-fashion imitators sprout like weeds, Patagonia steers clear of trends, choosing instead to sculpt garments that last. These jackets stand as monuments to thoughtful design and mindful living.
Key Patagonia fleece styles
The Retro-X fleece
Designed to defy icy winds, the Retro-X fleece has stood the test of time. Introduced in 1993, it relies on thick, high-pile fleece to trap warmth. Beneath the textured outer layer lies a wind-blocking barrier, shielding wearers from the harshest gusts. Inside, a moisture-wicking lining keeps the skin dry during exertion. The cropped, waist-length design harks back to Patagonia’s climbing roots, ensuring freedom of movement and a snug fit. Built from 100% recycled polyester, the Retro-X has evolved without losing its rugged charm. Whether tackling trails or navigating city streets, this jacket endures, bridging function and timeless style.
The Synchilla Snap-T Pullover
A soft revolution in outdoor wear began with the Snap-T in 1985. Patagonia sculpted it from Synchilla fleece, a fabric that insulates without weight. The relaxed silhouette makes it perfect for layering, while its signature snap placket allows easy adjustment. A chest pocket punctuates the design, marrying utility with a touch of flair. It is no stranger to bold, colour-blocked patterns that make it instantly recognisable. A loyal companion on trails, by campfires, or on lazy Sundays, the Snap-T is built for those who appreciate function that doesn’t skimp on character. Durable, versatile, and enduring, it remains a cornerstone of Patagonia’s legacy.
The Better Sweater Jacket
Blurring the line between outdoor wear and urban polish, the Better Sweater reinvents fleece. Its knit exterior evokes the texture of classic sweaters, offering sophistication without sacrificing warmth. Inside, the brushed fleece cocoons wearers in comfort, locking in heat on frigid days. Patagonia equipped it with a full-length zip, high collar, and secure hand pockets for practicality. Made from 100% recycled polyester, the jacket underscores the brand’s environmental ethos. Its tailored fit and clean lines lend themselves to both mountain trails and daily commutes. The Better Sweater embodies quiet resilience, standing as a testament to Patagonia’s dedication to lasting design.
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