Adventure on your wrist? Done. Timeless style is what you’re looking for in that most important piece of male jewellery: the wristwatch. In the hyper-digital era, it’s not as if a reminder of the time is needed. A reminder of craftsmanship, the slowness of the analogue? Well that's needed now more than ever. That’s why we’re intrigued by this pair of classic timepieces, each opting for all-seasons, all-day black as the central part of their appeal. Let’s meet the pre-owned contenders, each with their own story of adventure.
Fifty Fathoms No Rad by Blancpain
Created for French divers, this is Blancpain’s working watch that speaks of all that’s essential and nothing more. That is a large part of the Fifty Fathoms No-Rad appeal. It’s a watch so central to the Blancpain story that the storied Swiss watchmakers have even made a documentary about it.
First, you might want to know about the yellow circular “No Radiation” alert that dominates the lower part of the dial. Blancpain included this to show that there was no radium involved in their watch’s luminous qualities. Radium was at the time of the original’s introduction (mid-1950s) widespread on watch dials, and evidence of the danger of the radiation from that was mounting. Not from this watch. What started as a necessity, became a style.
This example is of more contemporary construction, but retains the divers’ external dial. Date window is at 3 o’clock, and the watch comes complete with all of its necessary papers. Diving venue? That's up to you.
Explorer 1016 by Rolex
A classic Rolex Explorer with a black as night dial. This example dates from 1984, and exhibits just the slightest patina of what has no doubt been an illustrious life. That of course is part of the allure of the pre-owned watch. Design dates from the mid-1950s – exactly the same era as the Blancpain – and was, legend has it, originally conceived to accompany mountaineers in the Himalayas.
Essential elements of the 1953 design - so called Mercedes hands, black dial, numbers at 3, 6 and 9, designed for readability above all else - are present and correct in this example from 31 years later. Bracelet here is in stainless steel to match the case, movement is automatic, and documentation includes original purchase papers from Mappin and Webb in Edinburgh. You’ll be wearing this every day, we’d hope. Particularly up a mountain.
But which to choose? And at what price? These are heirloom pieces, though as we’ve said they’re better worn than kept in their own display cabinets. Each of these impeccable pieces of the watchmakers’ art is available through Subdial, the global network of high-end watch buyers and sellers, with their own London Subdial Clubhouse to meet like-minded enthusiasts. That’s where you might decide between Blancpain and Rolex: priced respectively at £19,200 and £14,750. Or why not get the pair?
