Fashion’s fixation with functional outdoor gear is nothing new. For decades, technical garments designed for the harshest environments on earth have been recontextualised for city life – worn as status symbols or to signal allegiance to a particular fashion tribe. Think inner-city graffiti writers in Arc'teryx shells, East Coast rappers wearing The North Face puffers, or the current wave of social media-fuelled Gore-Tex fetishism dominating your feed.
Plenty of outdoor brands have tried to capitalise on this, and most fall short. By pandering to the fashion crowd, they lose credibility with their original customer base. But this is where 66°North is different.
Turning 100 next year, Iceland’s first and foremost clothing brand has decades on most of its competitors. It’s also one of the few labels to keep one foot in serious outdoor apparel and the other in fashion while maintaining integrity in both worlds. Expedition-grade kit sits alongside outerwear that wouldn’t look out of place on the runway, and Bergur Guðna is the creative mind behind some of 66°North’s most forward-thinking designs. OPUMO caught up with him to find out more.
What do you feel is 66°North’s USP?
I would say 66°North’s unique strength lies in its authenticity, storytelling and high quality. While many brands claim durability and performance, we were founded to protect Icelandic fishermen and save lives at sea back in 1926. Not many brands can tell a story like that. It’s a fact that in Iceland, 66°North is present in over 98 percent of households.
What does good design mean to you?
Good design, to me, means something functional, durable and made to last for years. One of my personal goals since joining the company around six years ago has been to maintain those qualities while bringing a fashion aspect into the design process. The garment always needs to be functional and waterproof, with certain features, but if it’s also visually interesting, then the goal is achieved.
Biggest influence outside of fashion?
Icelandic nature inspires me a lot. There are so many unique colours and forms to be found here. I once designed a jacket after seeing a beautiful stone at my summer house – its shape, colour and even size inspired me. It sounds strange, but that’s what happens when your mind is constantly thinking about design. Travelling and talking to people is also something that influences me. And the few times I’m completely alone, with my phone off and nothing around me, that peaceful quiet is when ideas often come.
What object do you consider to be perfect?
The iPhone. It has changed everything. We own factories in Europe, which means we can control minimum order quantities, and I often design on the go using my iPhone – sketching a quick idea or drawing over an image before sending it to the factory. I’m very into architecture, furniture and, of course, fashion, but I don’t think any product in the past 20 years has been as perfect as the iPhone.
How does an idea become a 66°North product?
If I had to mention one thing, it would be the archive. We have pieces in there that date back to the 1950s. Whether I’m designing for the main line or a collaboration, I often start there. Referencing old archive pieces also gives the marketing team something strong to build on when launching a new product.
Which piece feels closest to 66°North’s DNA?
The first thing that comes to mind is the Snæfell Jacket. It’s lightweight, made from Polartec fabric with 20,000 mm waterproofness, and built to endure Iceland’s unpredictable weather. It balances technical performance with understated design – you can hike a glacier here in Iceland or walk through the streets of Reykjavík in it.
Imagine 66°North 50 years from now
I think we’ll have expanded, opened stores around the world and become a leader in our field. I believe we have the ability to become a global force. Yes, we’re competing with big players, but like I said earlier, we have a story that nobody else can tell. I hope that in 50 years’ time, the design team at 66°North will be referencing our work. If they are, then we’ll know we did something right.
Favourite non-66°North piece?
My 2010 Rick Owens spiral zip boots. They look good with almost everything, they’re incredibly comfortable, and I love that wherever I go, nobody else has them. They’re rare and visually unique. I love Rick.
One design trend you can’t stand?
There’s nothing that really comes to mind. I think there’s beauty in everything. I might disagree with how some people dress, but fashion is about expression. There are no rules – people should be free to wear whatever makes them feel good.
Next up: OPUMO chats with Pedro Palha of ISTO.
