'What do you do for work?' It's a pretty straightforward question to answer for most people. But when you're Nicolas Chalmeau, perhaps better known by his Thai name, Yuthanan, things get a bit more complicated.
Pick any vaguely creative noun, and there's a good chance it applies to the Tokyo-based, Paris-born tastemaker. Artist, designer, photographer, storyteller, collector, curator... The list goes on. His popular Instagram account serves as a digital moodboard showcasing a weird and wonderful cultural fusion of aesthetic elements. A firmly reliable source whenever we find ourselves in need of inspiration.
Chalmeau's main creative outlet these days is Sillage, his made-in-Japan clothing label, specialising in universal silhouettes that adapt to different body types. OPUMO caught up with the man himself to find out more about his work and to see what makes him tick when it comes to design.
What does good design mean to you?
Good design is functional and created without unnecessary constraints. It is something made to last.
That said, good design is also subjective. Everyone has their own perception of what good design truly is.
What object do you consider to be perfect?
That is a good question. The Land Rover Defender comes to mind. In terms of aesthetics, it is for me one of the best vehicles ever made, whether you call it a car or a truck. I love its proportions and the feeling behind the wheel. It is a pure source of joy.
Perfection itself is not really attainable. The Defender is far from perfect mechanically, and it can be troublesome at times, but that never stopped me from owning two.
There are many other objects I cherish for their beauty, functionality, or story. It can be a garment or an everyday object.
Who or what outside of fashion influences you most?
Traditions and folkloric crafts strongly guide my creative process. They influence not only Sillage but also my work as a gallery curator and photographer.
I enjoy listening to stories and naturally telling them as well. To do that, you need to constantly feed your mind with content, anecdotes, and lived experiences.
"The Land Rover Defender comes to mind. In terms of aesthetics, it is for me one of the best vehicles ever made, whether you call it a car or a truck. I love its proportions and the feeling behind the wheel. It is a pure source of joy."
One current design trend you love?
I do not really follow trends. In my market, trends are not very relevant. Many designers in Japan create based on their own convictions rather than global movements.
What I am drawn to today is not necessarily aligned with international trends, and that is exactly what I enjoy.
And one you are not so fond of?
I am not particularly fond of trend-driven design that lacks depth or longevity. When design exists only to follow a moment rather than express a sincere vision, it quickly loses its meaning.
What do you feel is Sillage’s USP?
Sillage has a very personal story. I founded the brand in Japan in 2018, inspired by my own journey as a French and Thai migrant who settled in Japan a year earlier.
The brand expresses things I cannot always put into words. It is an ode to aesthetics and comfort while preserving the essence of the men's wardrobe.
One of Sillage’s key elements is its one-size concept. The garments are carefully engineered to adapt naturally to different body types.
How does an idea become a Sillage product?
The process is very instinctive. Sillage has no strict calendar. We design according to the weather and work with short release cycles.
I travel a lot and constantly gather ideas, which allows the wardrobe to evolve naturally. I never wanted to follow the traditional fashion business model. Sillage is more like my aesthetic diary.
Which current piece feels closest to Sillage’s DNA for you?
Without hesitation, the Hakama Pants. It is Sillage’s very first design. I sketched it on a paper towel in a bar when I first met my brand partner. That same paper towel became the reference for the first pattern and sample.
For me, the Hakama Pants perfectly express my vision of comfort, elegance, and functionality.
"One of my favorite pieces is an accessory – an old The North Face backpack from the late 70s or early 80s. It travels everywhere with me."
Where do you see Sillage in 10 years?
I do not dream of scaling aggressively. I want Sillage to remain a label for people who genuinely appreciate well-made clothes and refined aesthetics.
I do not want it to become a large brand sold everywhere. I want it to stay small and focused on people who value beauty.
Community is essential to me. It is the core of everything I do. I work with friends, and I want that sense of exclusivity and closeness to remain at the heart of Sillage.
Favourite non-Sillage piece you own and why?
One of my favourite pieces is an accessory – an old The North Face backpack from the late 70s or early 80s. It travels everywhere with me.
It is made from extremely robust canvas with leather details, still very solid, with many pockets and a very comfortable feel. I love its aging and patina. It has real personality.
The bag itself was made in the USA, while some parts like the closures were made in Switzerland. I am happy to be part of its story, and I hope my son will continue it one day.
Next up: Design Frequencies with Lorenzo Brunetti or Buetti.
