Everything you ever wanted to know about the black tie dress code

If you dread opening an invitation and being met by the words ‘black tie dress code’, you’re not alone. This is one of the most common dress codes for men, but it’s also one of the most misunderstood. Take a look around any black tie wedding, and you’ll spot a smattering of bewildered looking guys in Men in Black cosplay awkwardly clutching their champagne flutes. Little do they know, but ‘black suit + tie + dress shoes’ doesn’t necessarily equate to nailing the brief.

The good news is that the black tie dress code is actually incredibly easy to get right. In fact, this is the very reason people tend to get it wrong. Unlike casual suits, black tie is built around a set of very specific rules that have been set in place over centuries. Some can be broken to an extent, but others are firm, and integral to the black tie look. It’s our job here to break them down for you, so that you know exactly what you can and can’t wear.

Now, there’s no quick fix here. This isn’t smart casual. If you really want to understand the dress code, there’s a lot to know, so strap in while we walk you through everything from the specific garments that make up the look to the dos and don’ts of wearing them.

Table of Contents

Key black tie pieces

The dinner jacket

The dinner jacket, often referred to as a tuxedo jacket, is the backbone of any black tie outfit. It must feature satin or grosgrain lapels and buttons to differentiate it from an ordinary suit. Traditional black tie jackets come in two main colours: black and midnight blue, though modern interpretations have introduced other colours like burgundy and forest green.

When it comes to lapels, there are three main types to choose from:

Notch lapel: The most common in regular suits, though less formal for black tie.

Peak lapel: A more traditional choice that adds a touch of formality.

Shawl lapel: Often associated with tuxedos, the shawl lapel has a sleek, rounded edge.

Material choices

Wool barathea is the most common material for a dinner jacket, known for its matte finish and soft texture. For those who want to stand out, velvet dinner jackets can offer a luxurious feel, especially for colder months.

Double or single-breasted?

While single-breasted jackets are more traditional for black tie, double-breasted options are gaining popularity, offering a slightly more modern touch. If opting for a double-breasted jacket, it should still adhere to the formal structure, with satin lapels and a tailored fit.

Jacket colour options

Midnight blue is a popular alternative to black, especially for evening events. It appears darker than black under artificial lighting, giving a sharp look. White dinner jackets can be worn in tropical climates or during summer months, though they require a delicate balance to avoid appearing too casual.

The trousers

Trousers for a black tie event must match the material and colour of the dinner jacket. The most distinctive feature is the satin stripe that runs down the side of each leg, a hallmark of formal evening trousers. The trousers should be high-waisted, ensuring no shirt is visible between the waistband and jacket. Wearing braces is recommended to maintain a neat, tailored look.

Avoid regular dress trousers that are too tight or too loose; they should have a slim, tailored fit. A slight break at the hem is ideal, as it maintains a sharp silhouette.

The dress shirt

The black tie dress shirt is one of the key components of the outfit. It must be white and made from high-quality cotton, often featuring a pleated or Marcella front. Traditional black tie shirts have a wing collar, though modern variations may feature a spread collar.

Cufflinks are required, as black tie shirts have French cuffs. The buttons on the shirt are either hidden with a placket or replaced by decorative studs, which add a refined touch to the overall look.

Collar types

Wing collar: The most formal option, featuring small pointed tips.

Spread collar: A more contemporary choice, still acceptable for black tie.

The bow tie

A black silk bow tie is an essential element of the black tie dress code. It should be hand-tied, which not only looks better but shows an appreciation for the tradition. While pre-tied bow ties are available, a self-tied option will elevate the entire outfit. Oh, but you have a lovely Hermès neck tie? Sorry, you'll have to leave it at home, no matter where its from. Only a bow tie will do the trick here.

Though black is the classic colour, some modern variations allow for deep burgundy or navy, but white bow ties are strictly reserved for white tie events.

Shoes

For black tie events, shoes should be formal and polished. The traditional choice is black patent leather, which reflects light and contrasts beautifully with the matte wool of the dinner suit. Velvet slippers can be worn for a more flamboyant look, but suede should be avoided due to its casual appearance.

Ensure that your shoes are highly polished, as scuffed or dull footwear can undermine the formality of your outfit.

Accessories

Accessories may be subtle, but they play a crucial role in completing the black tie ensemble. Cufflinks, shirt studs, and a good dress watch are the primary accessories for a black tie look.

These should be understated and elegant. Silver or gold are classic choices, and while they can feature subtle detailing, avoid anything too flashy.

Pocket square

A white silk or linen pocket square adds a touch of class to the ensemble. It’s a small detail but one that can enhance the overall look.

Waistcoat or cummerbund?

The waist should always be covered in black tie attire, and you have two options: a waistcoat or cummerbund. A low-cut, U-shaped waistcoat in matching fabric to your jacket is a classic option. The cummerbund, often in black silk, serves the same function, covering the waistband of your trousers and creating a clean line.

What is a black tie event?

Black tie events are typically evening affairs that call for formal dress. These might include galas, award ceremonies, weddings, or other high-profile gatherings. The black tie dress code indicates that the event is significant, and guests are expected to dress accordingly.

While black tie might seem like a relic of a bygone era, it continues to be a mark of sophistication and respect for the occasion. Dressing appropriately not only ensures you look your best but also shows a level of respect for the event and its hosts.

The history of black tie

The black tie dress code dates back to the late 19th century, evolving as a less formal alternative to the white tie. It originated with British aristocracy, most notably when King Edward VII swapped his tailcoat for a more relaxed smoking jacket and matching trousers. This transition marked a shift in evening wear, allowing for a more comfortable, yet still elegant, look. As the trend crossed the Atlantic to America, the tuxedo became a standard for formal evening events, embraced by high society for dinners, balls, and upscale occasions. The core elements—dinner jacket, bow tie, and formal trousers—have remained consistent, with modern tweaks to fit contemporary fashion while preserving its roots in elegance.

Over time, black tie attire has adapted to changes in fashion but has always maintained its air of sophistication and exclusivity. Despite shifts in cultural norms, black tie continues to represent the height of formal dressing, signalling a special occasion where elegance and refinement are expected. Today, it’s a staple for weddings, award ceremonies, and other milestone events, where tradition blends with modern style.

Why black tie matters for formal events

Black tie dress codes uphold the tradition of formality and help set the tone for important events. When guests adhere to black tie, it ensures that everyone is dressed to the same standard of elegance, fostering a sense of uniformity and sophistication. This isn’t just about appearances; it’s about creating an atmosphere that complements the significance of the occasion. It's not your average casual suit.

Dressing in black tie shows respect for the event and its hosts, signalling that the evening is special. It elevates the ambiance, turning an ordinary gathering into a memorable experience. From the sharp lines of a well-fitted tuxedo to the gleam of polished shoes, every aspect of the attire contributes to the overall elegance of the event. Black tie attire highlights the value of tradition while allowing guests to express their individual style within the framework of formal sophistication.

Modern interpretations

While the traditional black tie outfit remains popular, modern interpretations have been making waves on runways and red carpets. Celebrities in particular have embraced offbeat modern touches in traditional black tie attire, offering a fresh take on this classic look. So if you want to jazz things up, look to the red carpet for inspiration.

If you’re looking to experiment with black tie, consider swapping a traditional jacket for one in velvet or a deep, rich colour like burgundy. Just be sure to keep the rest of the outfit formal to avoid undermining the overall look. If you're feeling brave, you could switch the dress shoes for loafers too. Just make sure they're black leather horsebits.

The dos and don'ts of the black tie dress code

Do wear a dinner jacket with satin lapels

A dinner jacket, featuring satin or grosgrain lapels, is essential for black tie. It elevates the outfit's formality, making it distinct from a regular suit. Wool barathea is common, while velvet offers a luxurious alternative. Choose between notch, peak, or shawl lapels for a classic look.

Don’t wear a regular suit

Black tie events require more than just a business suit. A dinner jacket is crucial to meet the event's formal dress code. Wearing a regular suit might leave you looking underdressed, diminishing the significance of the occasion.

Do opt for a hand-tied bow tie

A hand-tied bow tie exudes sophistication and authenticity. The subtle imperfections of a self-tied bow add personality, signaling attention to detail. Stick to classic black silk or experiment with midnight blue for a modern twist.

Don’t wear a long tie

A long tie is a major faux pas at a black tie event. The dress code specifically calls for a bow tie, which complements the dinner jacket and adds symmetry to the outfit. Wearing a long tie can make your ensemble appear less formal and incomplete.

Do choose polished black patent leather shoes

Polished black patent leather shoes are the traditional footwear for black tie. Their sleek, shiny appearance pairs well with the formality of the tuxedo. Velvet slippers can also work for a more relaxed, luxurious vibe, but make sure they’re in top condition.

Don’t forget to polish your shoes

Wearing scuffed or unpolished shoes can undo all your efforts to look polished. Avoid casual materials like suede, which appear dusty under artificial light. Polished shoes demonstrate attention to detail and enhance the formality of your overall look.

Cufflinks are a subtle yet essential accessory for black tie attire. Paired with a French-cuff dress shirt, they add a layer of refinement. Opt for simple, elegant designs in silver, gold, or mother-of-pearl to keep the look understated but sophisticated.

Don’t skip the waist covering

Waist coverings, whether a cummerbund or waistcoat, are a crucial part of the black tie dress code. Not only do they complete the look, but they also create a streamlined silhouette. Skipping this element disrupts the overall balance of your outfit, making it seem incomplete.

Do wear a dress shirt

A crisp, white dress shirt with a pleated or Marcella front is a key component of black tie. French cuffs and cufflinks add a refined touch, while shirt studs or concealed buttons enhance the shirt’s formal appearance.

Don’t experiment with bright colours

Black tie is about elegance, which means sticking to classic colours like black or midnight blue. Bright or bold colours can detract from the sophisticated look that black tie demands. Avoid anything too flashy to ensure your ensemble remains timeless and formal.

Conclusion

The black tie dress code is timeless, offering a blend of tradition and modernity that few other dress codes can match. Whether you’re attending a wedding, a gala, or a formal dinner, understanding the elements of black tie attire will ensure you always look sharp. Stick to the basics—dinner jacket, bow tie, formal shoes—and don’t be afraid to add a personal touch with velvet or midnight blue. Black tie may be formal, but it’s also an opportunity to showcase your style and confidence.

Next up: What's the difference between a tuxedo and a suit?