Just over 20 years ago, Stone Island surprised the world with one of the most unlikely collaborations of the time. In 2004, the luxury sportswear label, known for its fabric innovation and unusual dyeing processes, joined forces with mountaineering brand La Sportiva. On paper, the partnership wasn’t wildly unusual. After all, these are both premium Italian brands, famous for quality and highly regarded in their respective niches. What was unusual was the subject: a climbing shoe.
La Sportiva x Stone Island: @hartcopy, @the.sixth.sense
Under the creative direction of legendary designer Paul Harvey, Stone Island and La Sportiva created a duo of low-profile, foot-hugging, rubber-wrapped suede shoes, geared firmly towards rock walls as opposed to football stadium terraces. At the time, it was a questionable choice, but from the vantage point of the present day, and with the benefit of hindsight, it’s plain to see that the Stone Island x La Sportiva climbing shoe wasn’t a miss, it was simply two decades ahead of its time.
La Sportiva x Stone Island: @cachecollectives
Today, fashion’s fixation with mountain life is nothing new. Gorpcore passed its peak years ago and has since settled into a more stable position as another menswear subgenre. Think workwear, athleisure or Ivy League style. It could be argued that the sudden approach shoe trend – a piece of footwear originally designed to bridge the gap between a climbing shoe and a mountaineering boot – is simply a continuation of this, but we’d argue there’s a bit more to it.
Keen Jasper styled by @eye_C, @Deanna Dejesus
Trail runner fatigue?
For a year or two now, flat-soled shoes with their high rubber rands have been cropping up everywhere. Styles that have been around for years, such as the Keen Jasper, the Scarpa Mojito and the La Sportiva TX4 are experiencing a boom in popularity outside of their intended environment, and newcomers, such as OPUMO favourite Village PM, are riffing on the concept, repurposing the approach shoe’s practical features for skateboarding.
@arc'treyx Konseal shoes
Puma Kilm by @uptherestore
To really understand the approach shoe trend, let’s zoom out and look at the broader footwear landscape of the last few years. It’s no secret that low-profile, minimalist styles have been trending hard. From the proliferation of retro indoor football shoes like the Adidas Samba and Gazelle, to motorsport- and martial arts-inspired models such as the Puma Speedcat and the Adidas Taekwondo – flat-to-floor shoes with slim silhouettes have been inescapable.
@public_osaka, @thirdplace2025, @hip
In the other corner, fighting it out for the title of trendiest footwear style of the 2020s, trail runners, such as the Salomon XT-6 have been landing the punches for the best part of half a decade. It’s reached a point of saturation (to the point that we recently penned an article about the best Salomon XT-6 alternatives for those feeling the fatigue), which is impressive for a shoe so wildly impractical for walking around on paved surfaces all day.
Scarpa mojito gore-tex by @maw10.climbing Diemme Movida worn by @hip @advanced.research
The full package
The approach shoe’s appeal lies in the way it ties both of these styles together. It fits close to the foot without unnecessary bulk or heft. It still carries the outdoorsy, utilitarian, look of something built for the outdoors, but unlike a trail runner, there are no soft rubber lugs on the outsole to get chewed up by rock-hard city pavements. Practical and functional, but understated rather than obnoxious. It’s the best of both worlds.
