Nothing will replace a proper, well-made automatic watch. Nothing. It’s like suggesting NFTs are going to be more popular than the Mona Lisa. They’re just not, forget about it. There’s something inherently personal about analogue watches. That’s why even with the advent of smartwatches and the prevalence of the smartphone as a time telling device, people still pour over the horological wonders of the world’s most esteemed watchmakers.
At the centre of this timepiece universe is the automatic movement. Watches that need neither batteries nor winding in order to function. They’re the peak of craftsmanship, precision and time-honed innovation and every stylish man that cares about true quality should own at least one. Ready to add one to your collection? Scroll on for our guide to automatic watches, including our pick of the best automatic watches for men in 2024.
What are automatic watches?
First things first, let’s break it down. A watch movement, or calibre, is the mechanism that powers the watch. The engine of sorts. It powers the hands as well as any duel time device, calendar or chronograph. Tiny movements, all your cogs and dials, within the mechanism power the watch.
Now, these movements come in two forms. Mechanical and quartz. The giveaway as to which one is which is how the second hand moves. Fluid motion means mechanical, stuttering increments means quartz. The latter is powered by a battery, the former is not.
Mechanical movements are differentiated into two further categories. Manual and automatic. Manual requires winding in order to keep the internal mechanisms powering the watch. Automatic does not. They are powered simply by movement. Weights inside the watch mechanism will oscillate in response to your natural movements. Thus, automatic watches practically take care of themselves whilst still providing extremely accurate timekeeping.
How accurate are automatic watches?
There’s a reason why watchmaking often references the military and diving. If there’s anyone that needs an accurate watch it’s personnel in those fields. In some cases their lives depend on it. When it comes to accuracy, premium quality automatic watches for men, notably the ones on this list, are incredibly accurate. The most accurate of watches are the chronometers.
For everyone else a rule of thumb when looking for a quality automatic watch is the standard +/-25 seconds per day rule. If you’re losing or gaining 25 seconds over two days, this is usually a sign that servicing is required. Another indicator of accuracy is BHP which refers to ticks (or beats) per hour - the higher BHP the more accurate the watch is likely to be.
How should you style automatic watches?
Although the whole premise of an automatic is ease of use, there are things worth considering in order to ensure longevity and optimal functioning. Funnily enough the best thing you can do for an automatic watch is wear it. Move with it on. Let the weights oscillate. You’ll often see a bit of tentative movement in an automatic watch that hasn’t been worn for a while. Give it a little shake, move it around on your wrist, it’ll pick up in no time.
Otherwise the key to looking after an automatic watch is the same for any timepiece. Keep it clean and dry. Wipe the face clean daily. Don’t subject it to dramatic changes in temperature and keep it out of direct sunlight. Send it off for professional servicing every few years and it’ll see you well into the future.
Best automatic watches for men in 2024
DWISS R2-BB-Rubber
Introducing the DWISS R2-BB-Rubber watch, a Swiss-made automatic wristwatch featuring a unique floating hours display. With dimensions of 40.0mm in diameter and 10.5mm thickness, it boasts a sleek design with black and red details on the dial. The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, Peseux P224, with 28 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 bph. Encased in 316L stainless steel with a see-through case back, it offers a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The dial features a sapphire crystal hour disc using Super-LumiNova BG-W9 for enhanced visibility. Protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, this timepiece comes with a racing rubber strap in black with red stitchings and is water-resistant up to 10 ATM or 100 meters.
BALTIC Watches Aquascaphe
A workhorse of a watch, BALTIC's Aquascaphe is first and foremost designed for diving but its range of features make for a piece that serves as the ideal day to day watch. Waterproof, scratch-proof and shockproof, it’s a stainless steel watch that will take a hit. Double-domed sapphire glass, one of the world’s toughest materials, makes for a face that’s almost impossible to scratch whilst a 39mm diameter with notably bezel gives the watch a vintage-inspired classy look.
NOMOS Glashütte Tangomat
It’s not hard to see why NOMOS Glashütte’s multiple prizewinning Tangomat watch has become an immediate classic. Just look at it. A bright white face, clear lines, angular form and tempered blue hands (the result of heating stainless steel to 290C until it turns cornflower blue) all combine for a remarkable timepiece. An in-house built caliber DUW 5001 inside keeps it ticking along. A standout men's automatic watch that lends itself to larger wrists.
Heron Watches Marinor
The Marinor watch from Heron Watches is a tribute to mankind's maritime legacy. Inspired by vintage dive watches and oceanic folklore, it boasts a hardened stainless steel construction, automatic Miyota 9039 movement, and boxed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. With a striking Atlantic Blue colorway, it's built for adventures up to 300 meters underwater.
BOTTA Tres
The Tres watch from BOTTA Design is the pinnacle of clarity and precision. With its slim hands and finely drawn 60th scale, telling time becomes an art form. Subtle numbering between hour markings and the case edge adds discreet elegance, making it a sophisticated choice for those who appreciate refined design.
Dan Henry 1970 Automatic Diver
Introducing the 1970 Automatic Diver from Dan Henry Watches, a tribute to the revolutionary timepieces of the past. Designed for maximum legibility underwater, it features large hands and indexes, vibrant colors, and an iconic orange tint against a black backdrop. With an inner bezel for dive timing and a large second crown, it's a standout dive companion.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300
A TAG classic, the Aquaracer Professional 300 with its iconic octagonal dial features is a serious diving watch that packs vintage cool. Technically robust, the watch is deep sea ready with 300m water resistance, a slimmed down 43mm stainless steel case and rubber strap. The deep dial with sunray blush contrasted by Super-LumiNova® filled hands and octagonal hour markers makes for easy time-telling and a nod to TAG’s first dive watch, the Ref. 844.
Junghans Max Bill Automatic
Another modern minimalist timepiece for the list, from iconic watchmakers Junghans. A large, characteristically logical layout makes for an iconic piece. After all, if you’re going to name a watch after a modernist legend of the Bauhaus, you need to make sure it comes correct. As Bill said himself, “Watches... as timeless as can be conceived without forgetting the time.” Stainless steel, matt silver-plated dial, with an environmentally friendly luminous substance on the dial, it’s water-resistant up to five bar too.
Seiko SSK003
Seiko have the international traveller in mind when it comes to the SSK003, the brand’s flagship timepiece inspired by its iconic sports range. With three dial colour options (black, blue and orange), hands complement the respective style for visibility whilst a Lumibrite layer ensures legibility in low light conditions. A stainless steel case and five row bracelet make for classic sports watch aesthetic with ten bar water resistance and a see-through case back welcome additional features.
Seiko Prospex Alpinist Mechanical GMT
The Seiko Prospex Alpinist Mechanical GMT SPB377J1 pays homage to the original 'Alpinist' introduced in 1959, beloved by Japanese mountain enthusiasts. Evolving the Alpinist legacy, this timepiece emphasizes legibility with classic Arabic numerals, a curved sapphire glass, 24-hour bezel display, and a red 24-hour hand. Practicality reigns with a built-in compass, super-hard coating for durability, and the 6R54 Calibre, the first mechanical GMT movement in a Prospex watch, boasting a three-day power reserve to track two time zones simultaneously. Prospex, derived from 'Professional' and 'Specifications,' exemplifies reliability and durability for adventure seekers and sports enthusiasts in extreme conditions.
Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph
It’ll set you back and rightly so. The Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph is a work of horological art. The watches automatic movement packs 60 hours power reserve. whilst hour and minute baton hands coated in super Luminova®, and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective coating, ensure legibility and a robust hardwearing watch. But also, just look at it. What a beauty. Twenty-first century features packed into an iconic Tissot case shape from 1978. Laid back 70s sports watch vibes all over.
RADO Captain Cook Automatic
What Captain James Cook would’ve given for one of these. A Swiss timepiece from RADO that does the namesake explorer justice. Eyes are immediately drawn to the mesmerising face’s dark red colour gradient which fades to black. This black is surrounded by a rotating black bezel in high-tech ceramic with a three-row stainless steel bracelet completing the aesthetic. 30 bar water resistance completes a striking piece.
Timex Expedition North Titanium Automatic
The Expedition North Titanium Automatic by Timex is a rugged companion designed for enduring journeys. Crafted with durability in mind, its shock-resistant 41mm titanium case is paired with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal that's resistant to scratches, and it boasts an impressive 200 meters of water resistance. This exceptional timepiece is powered by a 21-jewel automatic movement and features a unique Ecco™ DriTan™ leather strap, harnessing water-saving technology. It carries the legacy of Timex, ready to equip you for adventures and exudes timeless tradition for everyday wear.
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