The menswear world is still digesting Ralph Lauren’s return to the runway. Staged in Milan last week, the Ralph Lauren FW26 show marked the designer’s first standalone men’s presentation in more than a decade and served as a timely reminder of just how much of modern menswear still traces back to his world.
Blending Polo and Purple Label, the collection moved through the many codes that have defined Lauren’s six-decade career. ’90s-era Polo nostalgia opened proceedings, with fleece, camo, intarsia knits and loose denim recalling the period when the brand’s influence was at its most visible. Rugby shirts and relaxed sportswear set the tone before the show shifted into more recognisable Ivy League territory.
Checked suits were styled with duck boots and hunting caps, while layered prep looks combined houndstooth jackets, cardigans and striped Oxford shirts. As the collection progressed, it matured into deeper, earthier territory. Browns, forest greens and heritage fabrics such as herringbone, plaid and hunting checks underscored the quieter luxury of Purple Label.
Indigenous craftsmanship also played a role, continuing Ralph Lauren’s work with the Authentic Makers programme, including collaborations with the Oceti Sakowin-led brand TÓPA and artist Neil Zarama of the Chiricahua Apache Nation.
What resonated most was how contemporary the show felt without chasing trends. Minimal, neutral looks sat alongside more expressive styling, with tailored suits worn under worn-in leather and even a tux paired with a metallic puffer.
The closing moment brought the message home. Tyson Beckford, one of the defining faces of Ralph Lauren’s ’90s era, walked the final look in a plush brown overcoat.
In a menswear landscape dominated by brands that borrow heavily from Lauren’s visual language, from Ivy prep to vintage Americana, the show landed as a subtle but pointed reminder. When the original author returns, the difference is unmistakable.
Next up: The best brands like Ralph Lauren.
