'How long should my shorts be?' There was a time when answering this question was easy. Shorts sat just above the knee, preferably in chino twill, and everyone got on with their summers. Then came the shakeup. First, inseams crept steadily north as running shorts and Ivy League style made exposed thighs fashionable again. Now, they've headed in the opposite direction, with oversized jorts and knee-grazing silhouettes dominating Gen Z wardrobes and fashion week street style alike.

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So, who's right?

The answer, frustratingly, is everyone. There isn't a universally flattering inseam, nor is there one that every stylish man should own. The best length depends on your proportions, your wardrobe and, ultimately, the look you're trying to achieve. Here's how to find what works for you according to inseam length.

5-6 inches: The athletic option

If you've noticed men suddenly showing a lot more leg over the last few summers, you can thank the twin influences of vintage sportswear and prep. Five-inch shorts, once reserved for runners and rugby players, have become a menswear staple thanks to brands like Aimé Leon Dore, Noah and Drake's.

They create a clean, athletic silhouette by exposing more of the thigh, making the legs appear longer in the process. They're particularly flattering on shorter men and anyone with an athletic build, but confidence is a prerequisite. There's no hiding behind a five-inch inseam.

Wear them with knitted polos, Oxford shirts, simple T-shirts and loafers or retro trainers. The result is relaxed, timeless and quietly confident rather than attention-seeking.

7 inches: The all-rounder

If there were such a thing as a default setting for shorts, this would be it. A seven-inch inseam lands comfortably above the knee without veering into short-shorts territory, making it the easiest length to wear regardless of your height or build. It's smart enough for lunch in town, casual enough for weekends away and relaxed enough for holidays.

Perhaps more importantly, it sits outside the trend cycle. While shorter and longer styles have come and gone, the classic mid-thigh short has remained a constant. If you're only planning to buy one pair this summer, this is the safest place to start.

8-9 inches: Relaxed refinement

Longer shorts don't have to mean oversized. Some of the best contemporary menswear brands have embraced knee-skimming silhouettes, using generous cuts, pleats and premium fabrics to create something that feels sophisticated rather than sloppy. Think Studio Nicholson, Auralee or Lemaire, where longer proportions are balanced with beautiful tailoring and clean lines.

The key is where they finish. Aim for the knee rather than beyond it, and keep the fit relaxed instead of excessively baggy. Linen, lightweight cotton and structured twills all help the fabric drape cleanly.

Below the knee: Trend-led dressing

If your social feeds have been filled with oversized denim shorts, skate-inspired fits and baggy jorts, you're not imagining it. Longer shorts are one of the defining silhouettes of the moment, driven largely by Gen Z's rejection of skinny fits and a broader return to late-'90s and early-2000s style.

They're fun, expressive and undeniably current.

Whether they'll still feel as fresh in five years is another question. Like any trend-led piece, they're closely tied to a particular moment in fashion, making them harder to recommend if you're building a wardrobe designed to last. That doesn't mean you shouldn't wear them – only that you're making a conscious style statement rather than investing in a timeless staple.

It's about more than inseam

Length is only one part of the equation. A well-cut pair of shorts should feel balanced from top to bottom.

Slimmer shorts tend to work best with lightweight shirts and minimal footwear, while wider, longer cuts pair naturally with boxier T-shirts, relaxed overshirts and chunkier trainers or loafers. Pay attention to the leg opening, too. Too narrow and they'll cling awkwardly. Too wide and they'll swamp your frame.

Ultimately, the best shorts aren't the ones currently dominating your Instagram feed. They're the pair that complement your proportions, fit seamlessly into the rest of your wardrobe and still look just as good when next summer rolls around.